Incredibly simple but not mentioned in a manual...

When you turn on the Statistics module in Drupal to track view counts it doesn't tell you the second step you need to do.

Go to the menu item:

Reports -> Access Log Settings

And then enable the Count Content VIews item.

You will now be able to see the counts in views and content, also bear in mind you may need to enable the permission 'VIew Post Access Counter' for the roles you wish to be able to view the counter!